Tenganan Weavers and the east coast

Kondri holding dyed threads for double ikat Grinsing cloth. The design in front of him includes four scorpions. This symbolizes harmony and cooperation in a group. He pointed out that the scorpion does no harm unless it is touched. This becomes a reminder to respect one another and to give each other space.

Threads of Life took us on a day trip to the ancient Bali Aga village, Tenganan, to visit 1 Wayan Kondri, weaver of unique Grinsing cloth. He explained the precise way of dyeing cotton thread with natural dyes, including indigo and morinda, the way they are tied and then untied as they go into subsequent dye baths, and then the weaving of the double ikat designs on a backstrap loom.

Kondri has been all over the world demonstrating and exhibiting this wonderful Grinsing technique, and many dignitaries including Prince William have visited his studio.

We also took time to shop for textiles in the local market and to visit with other crafts people in the village.

The tour ended with a relaxing picnic by the ocean. Thanks so much to Weti, our gracious guide, and to Rudi, our intrepid driver.

Pura Bratan and the mountains

Today we had a day trip up into the mountains to visit the beautiful temple on Lake Bratan. A must- see! Thanks to our driver Gusti, who navigated the winding roads through picturesque villages and verdant terrace rice paddies! We lunched at a cafe in the middle of the rice paddies, with a cool breeze and mist blowing over the mountains... Pictures to come later.

Indigo, tjaps, and tjantings

A lovely table linen made by the Tjok Agung Batik workshop.

Our hostess was late picking us up this morning for our day in the Tjok Agung batik workshop in Pejeng. No matter... We sat at the foot of the Campuan steps as motor scooters, taxis (large Toyota vans, mostly) and assorted other vehicles raced by in death-defying maneuvers. It is amazing what can be carried on a scooter, but that is another post.

The most amazing thing was meeting two tiny women who were going up and down the 93 stone steps with loads of what appeared to be dry cement mix balanced on their heads. Each time they went by we exchanged pleasantries, as one of our number is conversant in Bahasa Indonesian.

They made 4 or 5 round trips as we sat at the taxi stand. Finally, our driver, Ibu Agung, wife of the workshop owner, arrived and whisked us off to Pejeng. The workshop was full of the familiar smells of fermenting indigo and smoking wax, and we soon were choosing fabric and tjaps (wooden or metal wax stamps) for our projects.

A young man demonstrated the finer points of stamping, and we all managed to wax a scarf or two and a table runner. Then we watched the first of several dips in the indigo.

The pieces were pale green as they emerged from the dye bath, then turned light blue after exposure to the oxygen in the air. Several dips are required for a medium blue.

After a quick lunch and some shopping in the Tjok Agung showrooms, we each waxed a third bit of cloth and were ready to head home.

When we were finally dropped at the foot of the Campuan steps we were pretty exhausted and ready for an early supper at the Ibu Putra Warung at the top. As we sat sipping our fresh lemon juice, our friends with the baskets of cement mix passed by and waved through the hedge.

While we were sitting quietly waxing our cloth, these two women had spent the entire day carrying heavy loads up and down the 93 steps! They were still at it when we finished our meal.

Agung Rai Museum of Art

Sketching at ARMA, photo by Kiranada

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This morning we sat in on a sketch class at ARMA in Ubud. Our model was a young man who somehow managed to stay still despite the army of ants and legions of gnats who delighted in our presence. The green moss, the rice paddies, the tree-sized bougainvillea, and the thick humidity and heat made this plein air experience memorable! Here are a few of my sketches.

But the real highlight was watching the children as they practiced their traditional Balinese cultural dances and music. The girls danced in their group, alternating with the boys' group, and all were accompanied by the youth gamelan orchestra!

We explored the galleries there... Both contemporary and traditional art is featured.

We finished with a late traditional lunch at the warung (cafe) by the entrance. My treat was a not-so traditional strawberry milkshake... Very refreshing!

Threads of Life

Yesterday we were treated to three hours with William Ingram, founder of Threads of Life Indonesian Textile Arts Center in Ubud. He used textiles to tell the story of the peopling and cultural development of the archipelago that is now Indonesia. It was fascinating to see how the local Balinese were affected by the spice trade, which brought the Indians, the Chinese, and finally Europeans, along with their religions (Hinduism, Buddhism, Islam, and Christianity), as well as political pressures and conflicts. Photos to follow... I was glad later not to have my camera, as we were caught in several tropical deluges. We waded along the streets, made it to the market, and after being totally drenched, hailed a taxi and retreated back to the peace of Santra Putra guesthouse.

Wayan Karja

We are staying at the Santra Putra Guesthouse, a compound which includes the home, studio, and gallery of internationally known artist Wayan Karja. Yesterday he shared his journey and his beautiful painting with us.

Kiranada and Marjorie listen as Karja explains the Balinese world view
and the colors integral to it.

Karja showed us his beautiful abstract paintings, most of which were done with acrylic paint and water sprayed, splashed, and manipulated across the surface of the stretched canvasses on the floor. All evoke a feeling of the natural world, even of the Impressionists and Rothko,  which were an early influence on Karja. 

There are several videos on YouTube showing his work in progress.

A quote from the morning visit:
"I trust water. Water is a better painter than me."